Morning Squidussion

By Alice O'Connor, Jun 23, 2009 7:00am PDT

Everyone welcome Nick back from his unusually busy vacation. The poor soul just wanted some rest and relaxation, but no matter where he went--the Orient express, an English manor house, New York, a sleepy Maine fishing village--murders and mysteries were abound. He ended up spending his time dashing around questioning suspects and searching for clues rather than burning to a crisp and wearing straw hats daubed with amusing slogans as he should have been. Bless his little white cotton socks.

Click here to comment...

advertisement
  • Basic Tiger Woods Club breakdowns and tuning in reply.

    Thread Truncated. Click to see all 3 replies.

    • Fyunch Click's Basic guide to the clubs in your bag and basic strategies for tuning them, for Tiger Woods 10.

      Driver: This is your main cannon, your initial shot on about 70-75% of the holes. The longest club in the bag.
      Get the driver up in power to between 35-45% sweet spot(may vary for you, you get to practice swing and adjust all you like but that range is a good balance of distance.), reduce workability as you really just want it to go far and straight. I like a 9.5 degree loft on it as well as you can increase the loft to get over some trees on some doglegs. I also prefer little to no spin on the driver (as with the majority of my clubs, i give a yard or so in distance but don't scoot off the target area as much).

      Woods: These are the clubs you use on short par 4s, loooong par 3s and to make par 5's in 2 strokes to get yourself the eagle chance. Second longest clubs in the bag.
      Increase your workability on these, this is for dogleg holes off the tee and the like. Increase your power until you can consistently hit well, again using your practice swings.You want distance on these clubs as they are the clubs that will get you to the green. I prefer them lofted higher to get over hills and obstacles and again prefer little or no spin.

      Irons: You'll spend a lot of time with these guys as you'll use them for almost every approach. Labeled from the 1 Iron all the way to the P wedge in the game. Lower numbered Irons are "longer" as on real clubs: the smaller the number gets the longer the length of the shaft, the more torque and potential energy you have to launch the ball. Generally the 3rd longest clubs in your bag.
      Workability is again key here. Irons need to be the second most workable clubs behind the wedges.
      I like between a 40-50% sweet spot on the irons simply because you don't want to fuck up your approach shot and getting as close to the pin from 160-90 yards out is vital. Note: they include the P wedge in the irons category, do not expect as much roll on the P wedge as you'll get on the rest of the wedges. Again I want little or no spin as I want the ball to sit when it hits the green with minimal backspin.

      Wedges: Aside from your putter these are probably the most important clubs in the bag. They are high loft clubs used to get the ball on the green, next to the pin or to use the contours and backspin to put the ball next to the pin. The designations are:
      AW: Approach Wedge
      GW: Gap Wedge
      SW: Sand Wedge
      LBW: Low trajectory lob wedge.
      LW: Lob Wedge
      HLW: High Lob Wedge
      Recently golfers are referring to the degree of loft to better distinguish the lob wedges (60 degrees or higher usually will designate a lob wedge. Most commercial lob wedges to not go higher that 64 degrees.) For the purposes of the game you just need to know that loft angle increases from the Approach through the High Lob. The shortest clubs in the bag.
      Max workability here power is less of an issue as the loft in the tuner often affects the distance more than power. As always shaping your approach shot is/can be vital, fades and draws will be played a lot with these clubs.. I prefer a mid loft in the tuner so that wind doesn't affect the ball as much, along with no spin. You will always get backspin off wedges, I just prefer minimal spin is all. I prefer the Approach along with the HLW.

      Note: you are limited to 14 clubs in your bag by USGA rules.
      Depending on how you tune your clubs this can make the higher lofted woods, for instance, useless in your play style (meaning your drive the hell out of the ball and almost never use a wood) in that case I'd still keep one wood, but instead add an additional wedge or a longer iron such as a 2 or even a 1. (Note: Lee Trevino once said that you should always carry a 1 iron on the course in case of lightning, because not even God could hit a 1 iron.)
      Pick your clubs based on your play style and don't be afraid to change your club choices and even the club tuning from course to course. They have added a practice round on the PGA tournament in game, take advantage of it to make sure your clubs are tuned right.

      This blog post goes into much greater detail about clubs, sweetspot size combined with power ratings: http://insideblog.easports.com/archive/2009/03/27/tiger-woods-pga-tour-10-club-distances.aspx